This post offers tips on maintaining a swimming pool that uses copper ionization.

Copper or silver is the primary active ingredient in all mineral pool systems. The same tips apply to copper-silver ionizers and most mineral pool systems.

The primary benefit of mineral ionization is that you typically don’t need as many chemicals to maintain a clean, clear, and properly balanced pool. Some ionizer manufacturers claim you don’t need chemicals, but ClearBlue or governing bodies do not support this.

Water Quality and Balance

It is essential to balance the water in any pool, but the balance is critical when you have low chlorine and minerals in the water. To start with the cleanest possible water, filling the pool with a hose filter is a good idea. These will remove iron, sediment, and other contaminants from the water at the source. Why put crap in your pool to remove it with chemicals? The cleaner the water is in the beginning, the easier it will be to keep it balanced and sanitized.

The most important parameters for pool water are pH, alkalinity, and calcium. Keeping these three elements balanced will ensure that the water is comfortable, safe for pool equipment, and unlikely to precipitate minerals onto surfaces, which can lead to staining. Several test strips are on the market that make it easy to test these common parameters at home.

Mineral Electrodes

With ionizers, the primary method of keeping the pool clean and clear is releasing minerals into the water. An electrical current charges mineral plates or electrodes plumbed into the pool or hot tub water line. Mineral ions are released as the electricity jumps from one plate to the other through the water. These mineral ions are the active ingredient that assists in controlling bacteria and algae in pools and spas by augmenting the bactericidal and algicidal activity of primary disinfectants. Over time, the mineral plates wear down as the ions are released. It is essential to monitor the electrodes regularly to ensure they haven’t worn down completely. This would mean that no minerals are left to be released, and the pool is susceptible to algae and other problems.

We typically recommend replacing your cell every season. However, this will vary depending on the size and usage of your pool. Also, the first cell will wear down faster because the minerals must ramp up in the water. But, since the ions are very stable and stay in the water over the winter, the following sets will last longer.

Take a look at these images to see what worn electrodes look like.

Chlorine / Bromine

Most health organizations recognize the benefits of ionization and suggest a lower level of chlorine or bromine, ranging from 0.5pmm to 1ppm (vs. 1ppm to 3ppm in pools using salt chlorination or direct chlorination).

Some ionizer manufacturers suggest specific chlorine or bromine compounds for use with their ionizers. This is fine but not necessary. Any form of chlorine, whether liquid, tablet, or salt, will do the trick.

We recommend using 3” stabilized chlorine tablets. In pools up to 25,000 gallons, we suggest adding one tablet every two weeks, and for larger pools up to 40,000 gallons, we suggest adding one tablet every week.

Tablets can be added to the skimmer or floater. Some will say adding tablets to your skimmer will damage your equipment, but since you’re adding so little to a mineral pool, this isn’t a huge concern.

If you have an inline chlorinator, add several tablets at once and then dial back the chlorinator to setting 2 or 3.

Super Oxidization or “Shock”

“Shocking” your pool is a way to “super-oxidize” the water. This helps to burn off excess organic material that can build up in the pool.

With ionized pools, you can shock the pool after heavy usage or heavy rainfall. Follow the directions according to the shock product you use and the volume of water in your pool.

You can use either a chlorine-based or non-chlorine-based super-oxidizer. Non-chlorine-based shocks are usually potassium monopersulfate.

pH

Balancing pH in a mineral pool is like any pool. The ideal range is 7.2 to 7.6. Anything outside of this range will affect the water’s feel and the chlorine’s effectiveness.

With copper ionization, acidic water increases the risk of copper staining the pool lining and surfaces. So, it is even more important to test pH on a regular basis.

However, the ionization process is pH neutral, so the pH should not fluctuate as much as it would with a salt-chlorinated or traditional chlorine pool. Also, when used as directed, most mineral pool systems and ionizers will not add enough copper or other minerals to the water to cause staining.

The easiest way to test your pH is to take a water sample to your local pool store. They will usually test it for free and suggest products that raise or lower the pH as needed.

If visiting a pool store is not convenient, you can also use a home test kit and order pH balancing products online.

Alkalinity

Alkalinity should be balanced in an ionized pool the same way it is in any pool. The ideal range is 80ppm to 120ppm. If you have a pool store nearby, they can test alkalinity along with pH and offer the appropriate products. However, if this is not convenient, a home test kit will work, and there are many online sources for pool chemicals.

Ionized pools typically do not have drastic fluctuations in alkalinity. However, it is essential to test it regularly and keep it in the proper range. Properly balanced alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH, minimizing the risk of pH going out of range and causing issues.

Calcium and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)

The recommended range for calcium is 200 ppm – 400 ppm, and the recommended range for TDS is 500 ppm – 2,000 ppm. Water containing more than 400 ppm calcium or 2,000 ppm TDS can lead to scaling of the electrodes that produce the ionized minerals. Since the electrodes wear away after one to three seasons, this is usually not a problem. However, if they become scaled up excessively, they can be cleaned by filing away the scale with a metal file.

Chelating Agents

If your pool has a white or light-colored surface, using a chelating agent at least twice per year is a good idea. These products, such as Orenda SC-1000 and The Ionizer Stuff, help to keep the minerals dissolved in the water. This will ensure they are active in the water, not collecting on surfaces. If you close your pool for the winter, the best times to use a chelating agent are when you open the pool in the Spring and when you close it in the Fall. Use it throughout the year as directed for added insurance and to get the most life from the mineral cell.

Check out the Mineral Lion Pool Ionizer on Amazon