A green tint might mean you have algae in your water. This might happen if the electrodes have worn down and need to be replaced. If the electrodes are okay and the copper level is correct, you can also try a clarifier.

You may see a blue tint if the copper level is very high. Test the water with a copper test kit to make sure it is within the recommended range of 0.2-0.4ppm. You may need to turn your ionizer setting down if you have a copper level higher than 0.4ppm. Refer to the operating guide for the correct setting for your size of pool or spa. If your copper is 1.0ppm or lower, your best bet is to cut the power to the ClearBlue controller or set the Ion Action to 00 until the copper level is reduced. If the copper is above 1.0ppm, you can use a sequestering agent to lower it. However, this will reduce all of the minerals in the pool or spa and neutralize new minerals for a period of up to 6 weeks.

Water containing iron can sometimes look brown. Iron may have been present in the water used to fill the pool or spa. If you have iron in your source water which can be common in dug wells, we recommend using a Metal Trap Filter to remove the iron before it gets into the pool.

If it’s too late and the water is already in the pool, you can use a stain & scale sequestering product to remove iron from water. Unfortunately, this will also remove the ClearBlue minerals and neutralize new minerals for a period of up to 6 weeks. If you must use a sequestering product, we recommend that you disconnect the power from the ClearBlue controller so that you are not needlessly using up the mineral electrode. Maintain chlorine or bromine at 1ppm – 3ppm during the 6 week period and then power the controller back up. Once the copper ion level reads 0.2ppm, you can reduce the chlorine or bromine down to 0.5ppm to 1ppm.